This site sets no cookies, and stores nothing in the browser.
That was checked rather than assumed: loading a page sets no cookies and writes nothing to local storage.
Visits are counted using Umami, running on the same server as this site rather than on a third party's. It records the page visited, the referring site, the country, and the browser and device type. It does not use cookies, does not fingerprint the browser, and does not record anything that identifies an individual visitor. No profile is built and no visitor is tracked between sessions or across sites.
The web server keeps standard access logs, which include IP addresses, for the purpose of running and securing the site.
The site is served through Cloudflare, which acts as a content delivery network and may set a cookie of its own for bot management and process request data in the course of delivering the site. Cloudflare's own privacy documentation describes that processing.
Typefaces are loaded from Google Fonts, which means a request is made to Google's servers when a page loads.